Patagonia
is the setting for some of the world's greatest adventures. Even
if we don't know much about the area, its name dwells in our subconscious,
whispering in our ear untold stories about this far corner of
the world.
We
imagine vast stretches of silent wilderness, tempestuous seas,
and wind-blown loneliness.
The first Europeans to lay eyes
on this land were led by Ferdinand Magellan, the first explorer
to cross the perilous Straits that bear his name today. His expedition
named the continent Land of the Patagons, or Big Feet, because
of the large footprints they found in the snow, giving rise to
the myth of a race of giant Patagonians. They saw the smoke of
native fires darkening the southern horizon, so they named this
region Tierra del Fuego, or the Land of Fire. Thus began the legend
of Patagonia.
The indigenous groups that lived
in Tierra del Fuego fully deserved to become legendary, being
the world's first and greatest adventurers.
Their arrival in Tierra del Fuego
was the final stop on the longest human migration ever. They had
arrived at the end of the world, where the Andes sink into the
sea and glaciers creep towards the shore.
With nowhere else to go, they
stayed, fishing from their canoes along the coastline, gathering
shellfish, and hunting guanacos and rheas (South American ostriches)
on the pampas. Photographs from early in the century show a Stone
Age culture where extremes had crystallized: It was the end of
the road for history's longest wandering people.
Protected from the rain on the
east side of the Andes, the Patagonian pampas are an enormous
desert; some say it's one of the world's five largest.
On the west side of the Andes lies a different world. Here, both
the Central Valley and the Coastal Range have dropped into the
ocean. What were once glacial valleys are now fjords, and what
were mountain peaks are now islands.
Erosion along the coast has exposed
the sources of hot springs, while the huge glaciers continue to
break up the landscape, making sea or air travel through the region
a necessity. Large forests stretch over the Andes Mountains from
the Pacific coast to the edge of the continent, crossed by winding
emerald-green rivers that carry glacial sediment to the sea, creating
a habitat for reckless trout and salmon.
This vast territory is really
two separate regions divided by the Southern Ice Fields.
Northern Patagonia is one of the
last great wilderness areas in the world. It is reached by a gravel
road known as the Carretera Austral, the Austral, or Southern,
Highway, completed in 1988. However, overland access to the road
is not yet complete, and travelers on this Southern Highway must
board several ferries to cross the mouths of the great fjords.
Here, the port of Chaitén
provides access to the north end of the Austral Highway, where
the rafting and fly fishing are among the best in the world, and
visitors can take cruises to see the glaciers and island hot springs.
Farther south lies the city of Coyhaique, the capital of the Aisén
Region, an ideal spot for fly fishing and for organizing overland
trips to the southern part of the Austral Highway, to General
Carrera Lake, and the Ice Fields.
South of the Ice Fields, the Magallanes
Region is a world apart, where vast expanses of pampas meet the
snowy Andes peaks. Paine Towers National Park -a World Biosphere
Reserve- is the most famous of all the conservation areas in the
Magallanes Region, and protects ecosystems that provide habitats
for guanacos, foxes, rheas (South American ostriches), and flamingoes.
South of the national park lies Puerto Natales, the port for the
ferries coming south from Puerto Montt. It is used as a base from
which visitors take hikes, ride horses, board glacier cruises,
go on overland excursions, and go kayaking or white water rafting.
Punta Arenas is the capital of
the Magallanes Region. Across from the Straits of Magellan and
Tierra del Fuego, Punta Arenas is the main starting point for
cruises and flights to Tierra del Fuego, the Beagle Channel, Navarino
Island, Cape Horn, and Antarctica.